Sandstone sealing in the Eastern Suburbs

The case for sealing is strongest on stone that takes salt. Pool coping in Point Piper or Vaucluse, terraces on the cliffs at Dover Heights and Tamarama, and front steps a block back from Coogee Beach all absorb salty water, and as it dries the crystals grow inside the stone. A penetrating sealer lines the pores so water beads off instead of soaking in, which slows that cycle considerably. It also gives you time with spills on entertaining areas: red wine, barbecue fat and sunscreen sit on the surface long enough to be cleaned up. The stone keeps its matte look and its grip, which matters on steps and around pools.

Not every piece of sandstone should be sealed, and we will say so. Old footings and front steps on Victorian terraces in Paddington, Woollahra and Randwick often carry moisture up from the ground. Sealing the face of that stone can trap salts behind it and make flaking worse. Some heritage walls are better left to breathe freely, with the moisture source fixed instead. Glossy acrylic and polyurethane coatings are a common problem in this region: they look good for a season, then yellow, peel and turn slippery. If your stone has one, it has to be stripped before any penetrating sealer can work, and we quote that after a test.

When sealing is right, we match the product to what the stone faces, whether that is ocean spray, pool splash, hard afternoon sun or year-round shade. You choose between a natural finish that barely changes the colour and an enhancing finish that deepens the honey and ochre tones, after seeing test patches of both on your own stone. The stone must be clean and fully dry first, and in a humid harbour-side garden that can take longer than you expect. We record the product, date and area for every job, so the next re-seal is simple. Re-seal intervals are set for your property, with ocean-facing stone usually checked more often than sheltered paving.

See the full method on our sandstone sealing page.