The Prestige Standard stone-care team · Published 5 November 2026 · Updated 5 November 2026 · 8 min read

Why we do not publish a price per square metre
Searching for a sealing price usually turns up a per-square-metre rate. The difficulty is that the rate rarely describes the same job. One quote may cover a quick rinse and a single coat of an entry-level sealer. Another may include a full biocidal clean, drying time, hole filling, two coats of a salt-rated impregnator and recovery of all the wash water. Both are 'sealing', and both are priced per metre.
We could not find a published, independent source of Sydney pricing for natural stone sealing that we were comfortable citing. Rather than quote a range that might not fit your stone, this guide explains what actually drives the cost, how we build a quote, and how to compare quotes from different specialists on equal terms.
Our pricing is on request. A quote follows photos and, for most jobs, a short site visit with a test patch, so the number you receive reflects your stone and your property.
The main factors that shape a quote
Every sealing quote is built from the same handful of variables. Some are obvious; others only show up on site.
| Factor | Why it matters | What we look at |
|---|---|---|
| Area and layout | Larger open areas are quicker per metre than steps, walls, narrow paths and edges | Measured areas, number of steps, vertical faces, edges and coping nose |
| Condition of the stone | Sealer needs clean, sound stone; heavy grime, mould or stains add preparation time | Biological growth, staining, salt deposits, erosion |
| Previous coatings | Old acrylic or polyurethane must be stripped before a penetrating sealer can work | Gloss, peeling, yellowing; a strip test on a small area |
| Stone type and porosity | Porous sandstone absorbs more sealer than dense travertine; travertine holes may need filling | Absorbency test, finish, filled or unfilled |
| Sealer type | Natural, enhancing and salt-rated impregnators differ in chemistry and price | Exposure, look you want, compatibility with any existing sealer |
| Number of coats | Porous stone and harsh exposure often need more than one coat | Manufacturer's instructions and absorbency on test |
| Access | Stairs, steep or cliff-side blocks, no side access, or long carries add labour and setup | Parking, water and power, route for equipment |
| Pool and surroundings | Pools, planting, glass and timber need protection; run-off must be contained | Covers, booms, bunding and recovery of wash water |
| Restoration needs | Etching, deep stains, salt damage or failed joints may need honing, poultices or repointing first | Condition survey and honest scope |
Area, layout and access
Area is the starting point, but layout often matters more. A flat, open pool terrace is efficient to clean and seal. The same number of square metres spread across sandstone steps, retaining wall faces, planter edges and a narrow side path takes far longer, because every edge and riser is worked by hand.
Access is a real factor across the Eastern Suburbs and Northern Beaches. Harbourside homes in Point Piper or Vaucluse, terraces in Paddington and clifftop properties around Palm Beach and Whale Beach can involve steep stairs, no side gate, tight street parking or long carries for machinery and water recovery equipment. None of this changes the method, but it does change how long the job takes and how many people it needs.
Condition and preparation: where most of the work is
Sealer is the visible part of the job, but preparation decides whether it works. A penetrating sealer has to get into clean, dry pores. Seal over mould, grime or salt and you lock the problem in.
- Cleaning. Sandstone usually needs a low-pressure biocidal clean; travertine needs acid-free cleaning that reaches into its holes. Our guides on cleaning sandstone and cleaning travertine explain why.
- Drying time. Sealer makers specify dry stone. Lithofin's outdoor guidance, for example, notes newly laid surfaces may need weeks to months to dry before impregnation. On a pool surround after rain, waiting for the stone to dry can mean a return visit, and that is built into the plan rather than skipped.
- Stain treatment. Rust, oil and tannin are best dealt with before sealing, otherwise the sealer protects the stain. See our stain removal service.
- Hole filling. Open holes in travertine are refilled with colour-matched filler before sealing so dirt and water have nowhere to collect.
When a quote looks unusually low, preparation is usually where the difference lies.
Stripping old coatings
Stripping is the single biggest variable we see on sealing quotes. Glossy acrylic, polyurethane and some solvent-based 'wet look' coatings sit on top of the stone as a film. Once they yellow, peel or go slippery, they have to come off before a breathable penetrating sealer can do its job. A new sealer cannot penetrate through an old film.
How hard a coating is to remove depends on what it is, how many layers there are and how long it has been on the stone. That is why we test-strip a small area before quoting. It shows which stripper works, how many passes are needed and whether the stone underneath is sound. Stripping is quoted as its own line item so you can see exactly what you are paying for.
The lesson for anyone sealing for the first time is simple: choosing a topical coating for outdoor stone often builds in a stripping cost later. Our guide to penetrating, enhancing and topical sealers covers this in more detail.
Sealer type and number of coats
Professional impregnating sealers vary in chemistry, penetration and price. A natural-look impregnator, a colour-enhancing sealer and a product formulated for salt exposure are not interchangeable, and the right one depends on where the stone is and how you want it to look.
- Natural or enhancing. Enhancers deepen the colour, a little like the stone when wet. Outdoors their colour effect can fade sooner than their protection, which affects how often you top them up.
- Salt exposure. Pool coping and ocean-facing terraces need a sealer suited to salt. Dry-Treat's technical guidance notes that cut edges and all exposed faces need treating in harsh salt environments.
- Coats. Many manufacturers specify two coats on absorbent stone. Dry-Treat, Lithofin and Aqua Mix all describe a second application for porous surfaces, with the excess removed before it dries.
Some premium sealers come with manufacturer warranties, but read the conditions. Dry-Treat, for example, offers a written performance warranty on STAIN-PROOF only when an accredited applicator applies it and the owner follows its written maintenance system.
Sandstone and travertine cost differently
The two stones share a process but differ in the details that drive time and materials.
- Sandstone is generally more porous, so it absorbs more sealer per square metre and often needs more drying time. Old sandstone walls and steps frequently carry mould, iron staining and old cement repairs that need attention first. Some heritage walls are better left unsealed altogether, which we will tell you. See sandstone sealing.
- Travertine is denser but acid-sensitive and full of holes. Filling, etch repair and honing are the common extras. Pool coping adds salt and protection of the water. See travertine sealing.
On properties that combine stones, such as sandstone walls, a travertine pool terrace and bluestone steps, each surface gets its own product. That can affect the materials line on the quote, but it avoids over-treating dense stones or under-protecting porous ones. Our natural stone sealing page covers the other stones.
Timing, weather and scheduling
Sealing is weather-dependent work. Most impregnators need dry stone, a surface temperature within the range on the label and a dry window afterwards while they cure. Lithofin, for example, specifies application between 10 and 25 degrees for its MN Stain-Stop, and Dry-Treat asks that STAIN-PROOF be kept free of moisture for six hours after application.
In practice that means a job may be split across two visits: clean on the first, seal on the second once the stone has dried. Around pools, a few days of drying is common. We plan for this in the quote rather than sealing on a damp morning to stay on schedule, because a sealer that cannot penetrate is wasted money. If you have an event or a property sale coming up, let us know early so the timeline works.
When sealing becomes restoration
Sometimes the inspection shows that sealing alone will not give the result you want. Typical examples are travertine with widespread etching or traffic wear, coping that has spalled at the waterline, sandstone with deep rust or salt damage, and walls where hard cement pointing is causing the stone around it to erode.
In those cases the quote includes the work needed first, such as travertine honing or sandstone restoration, and we explain what each item achieves. If a stonemason, tiler or structural engineer is the right person for part of the job, we say so.
How we build your quote
- Photos and a short brief. Send photos of the areas, a rough idea of size, and anything you know about the stone's history, such as when it was laid and what it was last sealed with.
- Site visit. We confirm the stone, measure, check access, water and power, and look for coatings, salt damage and drainage issues.
- Test patches. A small clean and seal test, and a strip test if there is an old coating. For a choice between natural and enhanced finishes, we show you both on your own stone.
- Written scope. The quote lists each area, the preparation, the product, the number of coats, any stripping or repairs, and what is excluded.
- Timeline and cure times. Including drying time, how long to keep foot traffic, furniture and pool use off, and what happens if the weather turns.
All our work is done by vetted, insured technicians, and we record the product and date for every sealed area so future maintenance can be quoted quickly.
Comparing quotes fairly
If you are getting more than one quote, ask each provider the same questions:
- Which sealer, by brand and product name, and is it penetrating, enhancing or topical?
- How many coats, and how is the excess removed?
- What cleaning is included, and how is wash water contained and disposed of? Our regulations page covers the NSW background.
- Is stripping of any old coating included or extra?
- How will they confirm the stone is dry before sealing?
- What insurance do they hold, and who actually does the work?
- What maintenance do they recommend, and when should the stone be tested again?
Cheap sealing that fails early is rarely the economical choice. Acid washing that etches travertine, high-pressure cleaning that erodes sandstone or a glossy coating that later needs stripping can each cost more to put right than the original job.
Keeping long-term costs down
- Rinse pool coping and coastal paving with fresh water regularly.
- Clean with pH-neutral stone cleaner, not acids or bleach.
- Do a water-drop test once a year and re-seal only the areas that need it. See how often to seal travertine.
- Fix leaking downpipes, blocked drains and garden beds that keep stone wet.
- Seal new stone or coping during a build or pool renovation, when access to all faces is easiest.
To start a quote, send us your photos.
Sources
- Dry-Treat: STAIN-PROOF impregnating sealer product information and warranty conditions (Kebur)
- Spec-Net: Salt resistant sandstone or limestone with Dry-Treat
- Lithofin: Natural stone outdoors, cleaning and care information
- Lithofin: MN Stain-Stop >ECO< technical information
- Aqua Mix: Enrich 'N' Seal technical data sheet (TDS-160)
- Natural Stone Institute: Care and cleaning of natural stone